Thursday, October 20, 2011

Samples from NYA




Everyone knows that the West Village is the place to go to find stylish, original finds. The independent boutiques and cobblestone streets set the area apart from the rest of Manhattan’s bustling Starbucks scenesters. One such of the Village’s best kept secret boutiques is NY Artificial.
Started in the late 90’s by current owner, Aaron Bond, and designer Alex Guzman, the boutique is a miasma of handmade purses, clothing and makeup, all created in the back of the store, on the premises. “We do not carry any of that China made, sweat factory clothing that is so common these days”, says Bond of the store, “Everything is high quality, made by independent designers, or hand loomed in the back of the store by Alex [Guzman]”. One can see the intricacy of the pieces, and the painstaking attention to quality is the weaving of the dresses. NYA caters to a certain type of woman, the woman who demands respect upon first glance, who cares for her look and the perceptions that others have of her, but not so much as to lose her own hard won originality. “We used to carry a lot more unusual, fantastical pieces, but with the recession they just weren’t selling.” says Bond “People are buying more basic right now. Desperation leads to conservatism.”
Unfortunately, politics does tend to dictate the evolution (or devolution) of fashion. What used to be a several location store has waned down to a single location in the Village. However, NYA is hardly dying; its customer basis still includes A-listers such as Brooke Shields, Maggie Gyllenhall and Camilla Belle. However, NYA does not discriminate against its less famous clientele, “You walk into Catherine Mallandrino and if you’re not a size 0, they’ll turn their backs” says Bond. Not so at NYA. NYA caters to a variety of different sizes and style preferences, offering a unique array of entirely vegan, cruelty free garments in a wide variety of materials. Some of its best finds include a hand loomed, hunter green frock dress, with detailed hand stitched patterns and an abbreviated hemline; a floral printed silk, sheet dress, and several radiant colors of handmade angora sweaters. My personal favorite? A silver studded satchel that will officially be topping the list for my upcoming birthday… and probably yours now too!

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Sarah Jessica Parker as Cinderella at the Golden Globes
Stella McCartney channels The Princess and the Pea

Alice in Wonderland inspired designer fare
With Halloween coming up, everybody seems to be thinking about costumes. What costumes should they wear on the big night? What costume should they wear to all of the parties leading up to All Hallow's Eve? I personally am more interested on what I can absorb from all of the outrageous get ups that I can use for further ensembles for the rest of the year.
No I am not considering walking the streets of New York dressed as catwoman in mid-March, however I might consider buying a pair of black leather pants and black leather boots in the tradition of the famous superhero sex symbol. Much inspiration can be derived from Fright Night if you keep your eyes peeled and your creativity high.
I personally find myself becoming most inspired by all of the three year old Disney Princesses I see stalking around on Halloween. That Alice in Wonderland smock dress? Chloe!Check! That Snow White collar? Marc Jacobs here I come! Cinderella's turquoise taffetta gown? Didnt I see Sarah Jessica strutting her stuff in a similar Lacroix number at teh Golden Globe awards?
Dressing up as a princess isnt just for three year old girls. Just make sure that you lose the tiara.... oh fuck it, keep the tiara, no one is going to look twice in this city!

Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Bright Black

The Real New York Look
Brightened up with a canary scarf
BCBG Brights

Derek Lam Brights

New York Streets black and grey
One thing that can always be said about New Yorkers? They never follow the runway. Oh sure, you can travel to the Upper East Side, feast your eyes on the tourists, proudly toting their Barneys bags, the nouveau riche daughters of the current internet billionaires, and yes, you will see a direct snapshot of this seasons runways trends hanging off their pilates toned backs. However, if you want to travel down to Soho, or the West Village to capture a glimpse of the real New York, the 2011 Fall runways show will not be represented there. That is not to say that you will not be witnessing some of the most stylish youth ever to walk the city streets. In fact, what you will witness, is true style. uncopied, uncensored my Vogue.

Proof that the rewal New York doesnt do "trendy"? The supposed return of brights. This seasons runways were covered in brights. Vogue, Elle and W magazine all boasted that Brights were the new Black. However, on the streets, New York seems to stay true to its signature black and grey. That isnt to say that a canary yellow scarf wont be thrown into the mix to add some eye candy to the ensemble. Other ways that young New York likes to liven up their basic black uniform? Funky patterns such as polka dots or houndstooth. Sure Derek Lam, BCBG and Louis Vuitton have been posting burnt oranges and violet blues in their shop windows, and by all means, do not discount them! After all, true city style is about following your own curb, which means, make it your own, keep it fresh, keep it young!

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Ode to Daphne Guinness: An FIT Museum Event






The antechamber at the beginning of the Daphne Guinness exhibit is dark and cold. The only light resonates from the spotlight peeking out from the ceiling which illuminates a navy blue Alexander McQueen net cat suit and laser jet, printed cape. Surrounding this spectacular ensemble are an array of unusual, fantastical, artistic constructions which scarcely resemble what we mere mortals often refer to as shoes.
From simply stepping into the antechamber, the viewer can already see that this collection of clothing is not made for an ordinary woman. The shoes alone convey this. These are shoes that would make Ann Taylor scream in outrage at the shear impracticality. However, Daphne Guinness clearly did not collect clothes for the practical reasons of keeping oneself warm and decent. Guinness was an art collector. She dressed to convey to the public who was in the moment, she liked to play a part, to defy convention. Guinness was herself, a piece of art; someone whom one could look at, and see the inspiration, history and heritage of the culture, simply by catching a glimpse of her clothing.
Daphne Guinness was wealthy, a public figure and a staple at parties and events, which is where the ensembles shown in the exhibit were first debuted. The exhibit is split into six separate collections: Armor, Dandy, Chic, Evening Chic, Sparkle and Exoticism. The Armor collection features a variety of clothing that could only be worn by a modern woman. Modern, however, does not mean just any woman living in the modern era because the unfortunate fact is that many woman of today still live with the mindset of yesteryear; the mindset of the meek and submissive. This mindset clearly did not belong to Daphne, these clothes tell the story of a strong independent woman whom, even at her most fragile, was a fighter, someone who could, and would, if the situation called for it, rescue herself. From the brown leather and rhinestone Hogan McLaughlin jumpsuit to the Alexander McQueen bra and harness bustier top, this particular collection is a heart stopping beginning to what is sure to be a revolutionary show. All of the clothes are fantastic; however the one that stands out the most is also the simplest. It is an Alexander McQueen short jacket with a long undercoat and an ivory cotton blouse from the 2003 McQueen shipwreck collection. This is the best outfit because it shows a bit of Daphne’s vulnerability shipwrecked among a sea of strength.
The next collection is Dandy. A menswear inspired look at Daphne’s love of androgyny. The collection includes tuxedoes, suits and punk rock style leggings. The London Punk Shop black and white striped leggings are immediately eye catching, however it is once again McQueen who wins out. A black wool tail coat over a Balenciaga cream silk, chiffon blouse is just the right take on Victorian elegance to once again perfectly describe Daphne. Even in a collection mostly inspired by the past, she brings her own modern sexuality to the table.
The Evening Chic collection was a breath of fresh air after all the punk rock toughness of the last two collections. The understated elegance of Alaia coupled with the class and simplicity of Lagerfield instantly calms the soul, but once again one look manages to break the heart with its intricacy and beauty. It is a Chanel dress and coat made of silver sequins and black silk faille. The character that Daphne was playing that night is instantly clear and the looker is transported to a time and place where a woman in a beaded dress enters a room in Manhattan the early 2000’s but at the same time thrills the attendees at a speakeasy in Harlem.
The just plain Chic collection is an exercise in youth and calculated adult cool. A Chanel jacket made of black and white wool, fur and stones add a subtle sex appeal to a classic look. The Chic collection is inspired by Guinness’ mother and grandmother, but not one look in the collection is old fashioned. From the Rick Owens ivory silk pants to the Chiffon Valentino kerchief blouse, each classic adult look contains a hint of the child within Daphne Guinness.
The Sparkle Collection is an absolute masterpiece. Like the Armor collection, it is an exercise in the bizarre. The eye can’t seem to make a decision. Which to take in first? The feathered McQueen dress and jacket combo? The Christian Lacroix marabou trimmed sequined frock? No, the one look that keeps the eyes firmly glued is an extravagant Alexander McQueen jump suit made from gold and bronze bugle beads coupled with a magnificent black feathered cape. This was worn by a woman who commanded every single pair of eyes in a room. And enjoyed it.
The collection ends with Exoticism, and oh but the finale is grand indeed. A black lace and feathered Valentino, a white sheared and fur McQueen. However, I surprise myself by being drawn to possibly the most subtle in this particular collection. It is by a designer called Jun Takahashi and it is exquisite. It is called a Skull coat, made of black wool felt from the Japan 2009 collection. It is simple but with a hint of exoticism. Classy but with an original rock and roll edge. It trumpets what each collection has been whispering about Daphne Guinness all along. Nobody is like her, because with Daphne, nothing is ever how it seems.